Fremfor at tune maskinen for at komme sløjheden til livs, vil jeg anbefale dig, at gennemgå dieselsystemet for slitage, idet disse ikke forsvinder ved tuning. Optimal effekt af tuning opnår du altså kun, hvis alt andet i brændstofsystemet er tiptop.
nye dyser
nye brændstoffiltre
nyt luftfilter
rensning af brændstofledninger og -tank
kontrol af brændstofpumpe
rensning af ladeluft- og vandkøler
kontrol af turbo/tryk
kontrol af kompression
udskiftning af alle olier
tøm bilen for skrammel
ellers finder du måske noget her:
http://landroverforums.com/m_497/printable.htmMht miljøkrav etc. må du kun tune så meget, at miljøtal ikke overskrides.
Maskinen må iht LR interne oplysninger tunes med op til 30% uden at den skulle tage skade.
Bliver maskinen tunet korrekt og alt tidligere nævnte er ok, så kan du endda forvente et fald i forbruget på ca. 7%.
Jeg tror, at Claus Vogter skulle være god til det.
og her en lang smøre på engelsk, som jeg ikke gider oversætte, men som beskriver hele proceduren:
Reasons not to do any of the things listed in this post:
1.) You are unsure of the state of tune of your engine and someone may have already altered the fueling, boost or both.
2.) You are unhappy with the reliability of your engine - none of the following will improve a failing engine and can make it fail very quickly
3.) Your exhaust puffs black sooty smoke at any stage of acceleration other than initial engine start up.
3.) You are not confident of your ability to perform any step detailed below.
4.) You are unsure what the word 'clockwise' means and you have a note from your Doctor excusing you from the use of sharp implements or tools due to an inability to tell your arse from your elbow ;)
I'll make this next bit plain I will take no responsibility for any damage you cause to your engine through modifying it using the steps here!
Ok, now that's said on to the good stuff. If your 300Tdi still has the EGR system fitted and in use, I'd recommend blanking if off and seeing if you really need to adjust anything else - the perfomance gains are staggering for such a cheap and easy fix.
The 300tdi (and 200tdi) uses the same injection pump as the 12v Dodge Ram - the Bosch VE.
Both the 200 and 300tdi engines are intercooled, but the intercooler is a little on the inefficient side and not really suited to high power/high boost applications - changing it for a higher capacity one will give vastly better results if you decide to up the boost.
WARNING: Playing with either the fuel delivery or the boost pressure can (and in some circumstances will) destroy your engine!
200Tdi engines run between 0.74 BAR and 0.82BAR of boost pressure, 300Tdis run 1BAR of boost. 1BAR is plenty of boost to supply air for some mild tinkering with the fuel delivery - in fact the stock 200 does very well with no modification of boost pressure, if you do increase it do it carefull and use a boost gauge to check you're not overboosting it. Anything more than 1BAR of boost with a stock intercooler is a waste of time as the increased temperature of the induction charge pretty much negates the effect of the extra boost.
Adjusting the fueling isn't difficult - but you need to be very methodical and careful to avoid mishaps.
There are 3 basic adjustments:
LMP (Low Manifold Pressure)
FLD (Full Load Delivery)
AFC (Automatic Fuel Control)
LMP is useful for building boost more quickly from tickover - it will make the car smoke more and might mean it will fail a smoke test for the MOT
FLD will dramatically increase the available power throughout the rev range - and if done incorrectly will cause a lot of smoke and some very high exhaust gas temperatures (which stands a good chance of wrecking your engine - so take a LOT of care with this one)
AFC increases the fuel delivery in line with the boost pressure applied to the IP (Injection Pump) by the turbo.
For your purposes I would adjust the AFC a little and see how you find it - leave the rest of the adjustments alone for now.
WARNING: Before you adjust ANYTHING mark it's current postition so you can return to a known working good setup if things start happening that you don't like.
Read ALL of the following paragraphs before undoing anything.
To get to the AFC control you will need to remove the flat plate on top of the IP, held in place with 4 large slot headed screws. Attached to this plate is a hose which goes to the wastegate actuator pipe from the turbo to the wastegate. Underneath the plate is a diaphragm on an eccentric spindle - this spindle is the FLD adjustment - if it is rotated while you remove the plate or once the plate is removed you will alter the FLD rate. On some cars, particularly, but not limited to, those with turbo problems oil mist is carried down the pressure hose from the turbo and it collects above the diaphragm - this will cause the diaphragm to stick to the plate you're about to remove - be aware of this and stop if the plate it stuck to the diaphragm. If the plate can be easily removed, allow it to hang on the pressure hose. Carefully mark the position of the diaphragm relative to the injection pump - there should be a mark (usually a full stop sized punch mark) built into the metal plate in the middle of it which you can use as a marker, you will need to place a mark on the injection pump (a magic marker is fine) so you can return the diaphragm to it's original postion.
Once you're marked up - you can lift the diaphragm, spindle, plastic washer and spring out of the pump - its a tight fit and you don't want to damage this or your IP will be useless so go carefully and definitely don't lever it. On the excentric spindle you will be able to see a scratch mark where the fuel delivery pin has been acting on it - if the diaphragm was moved before you managed to mark it's position you can use this scratch to realign the spindle with the fuel delivery pin by shining a torch down the hole where the spindle sits.
Under the diaphragm is a notched 'wheel or knob' for want of a better description. This is the AFC adjuster - the spring under the diaphragm bears on this wheel, the higher up the wheel is in its chamber the more difficult it is for the diaphragm to bear down on the spring and move the spindle up and down agains the fuel delivery pin. Thus, tightening the wheel (turning it clockwise) makes it easier for the boost pressure to press the diaphragm and spindle down and the fuel delivery rate under boost goes up.
Mark the current position of the notched wheel and count the number of clicks clockwise that you turn it. You will need to adjust this by a small amount and test it after each adjustment. I would not recommend turning it more than 1/4 of a turn in either direction without testing it.
To test it is simple - bolt everything back together making certain the diaphragm is in it's 'standard' position - adjust one of your wing mirrors so you can see the exhaust smoke (if any) and take it for a drive. If there's no black smoke from the exhaust you can increase the fueling further if you need to - if it's smoking a lot you need to adjust the notched wheel back until it just stops smoking under full boost.
Provided you haven't gone mad and massively over adjusted the wheel in one go all should be well.
If adjusting the AFC doesn't give you the power increase you're lookin for, let me know and I'll put up some instructions for the the other IP tweaks.
< Message edited by Adz -- 5/21/2007 10:14:38 AM >
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Adz
1993 Defender 90 200 Tdi CSW. 125k.
"If it doesn't work - break it some more!"
Jeg fralægger mig ethvert ansvar for skader, der måtte opstå på din maskine ved tuning...